Dryer Vent Repair & Installation
Crushed foil hoses, 40-foot runs, vents that dump into the attic. We fix what the last guy installed, with smooth metal duct, short clean runs and a proper outside cap.
Why Dryer Vents Fail
A dryer pushes hot, wet, lint-heavy air through a 4-inch pipe every load. When that pipe is crushed, too long, full of turns or made of the wrong material, the lint has nowhere to go. It builds up, the dryer overheats, and drying times double.
Most of the bad vents we see weren't worn out. They were installed wrong: plastic or foil hose run through walls, screws poking into the duct that catch lint, or a run so long no dryer could push air through it. Cleaning helps for a while, but the fix is a better vent.
Signs Your Vent Needs Repair
Call us if you see any of these. Some are fire hazards, not just annoyances.
What We Repair & Install
We replace old flex runs with smooth-wall metal duct, sealed at the joints with foil tape, not screws that snag lint.
If your run is too long or has too many turns, we look for a shorter path to an outside wall or the roof.
The short connector between the dryer and the wall gets crushed when the dryer is pushed back. We replace it with a listed metal transition.
Broken flaps, painted-shut louvers and screened caps that trap lint get swapped for a proper dryer vent cap.
Steel guards keep birds and rodents out without trapping lint. See bird guards.
We reconnect, support and seal runs that came apart in the basement, attic or a soffit.
What the Code Expects
Most NJ towns follow the International Residential Code (IRC section M1502) for dryer exhaust. The highlights:
- Vent outside. Dryer exhaust must end outdoors, never in an attic, crawlspace, garage or chimney.
- Smooth metal duct. 4-inch rigid metal for the concealed run. Plastic and vinyl aren't allowed.
- Length limits. 35 feet maximum, reduced for every elbow (about 5 feet per 90° turn), unless the dryer maker allows longer.
- No screws into the duct. Fasteners can't stick more than 1/8 inch inside, because they catch lint.
- Short, visible transition. The hose behind the dryer must be listed for dryers, 8 feet or less, and not run through walls or ceilings.
- A real cap. A backdraft damper outside, and no screen that traps lint.
How We Price It
Every repair is different, so we don't post one price. We look at your vent, tell you what it needs and give you the price before we start.
Priced as-is
A tech looks at the run, the route and the outside cap, then quotes the fix. No surprise add-ons once work starts.
Cleaning included?
If the old vent is staying in part, we clean what stays. Most repairs are booked together with a dryer vent cleaning.
How a Repair Goes
Repair & Install FAQ
How much does dryer vent repair cost?
It depends on what's wrong and how hard the run is to reach. We price each job as-is after we look at it, and you get the price before we start.
Can I use foil or plastic hose?
Plastic and vinyl hose shouldn't be used at all. Foil flex is only acceptable as the short, visible connector behind the dryer if it's listed for dryers. Inside walls and ceilings, use smooth metal duct.
My vent goes into the attic. Is that okay?
No. Dryer exhaust has to end outside the house. Venting into an attic, garage or crawlspace puts hot, wet lint where it can cause mold or a fire.
How long can a dryer vent be?
Under the IRC, 35 feet is the limit, minus about 5 feet for every 90° turn, unless your dryer's manual allows longer. Long runs are a common reason clothes take forever to dry.
Do you also clean the vent?
Yes. Cleaning is our main dryer vent service, and most repairs are booked together with a cleaning.
Code references: International Residential Code, section M1502 (Clothes Dryer Exhaust). Check with your local building department for the edition your town uses.
Get Your Vent Fixed Right
Talk to a real person at our Woodbridge office. Mon–Fri 7am–5pm.